A September Visit to the Grand Canyon Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona

An estimated five million people visit the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona each year. The Grand Canyon is an awesome experience of majestic expanse. The size of the Canyon, the numerous surfaces and colors of the rocks, the historic lodges, the campgrounds and the numerous hiking trails attract people from all over the world. The sunrise and sunset are truly magical and mystic times. I've visited the South Rim over and over, but this week was the first time I have ever stayed on the North Rim, and I certainly will look forward to another stay. The South Rim, the Grand Canyon Village and Tusayan have become increasingly crowded. No doubt there is a wider range of lodging, shopping, restaurants and activities on the South Rim; however that said, for those who seek a more quiet outdoors and restful visit to Grand Canyon, a visit to the North Rim is perfect.

The North Rim is open from mid May to mid October. Most visitors to the North Rim drive from Phoenix, Salt Lake City or Las Vegas or purchase a tour package from private companies. Once there, an Inter-Canyon shuttle runs from the North to the South Rim which takes about 4.5 hours. There is a $25 per car National Park fee, or $12 for pedestrians and/or cyclists. Our journey took us Norh from Flagstaff, Arizona on HWY 89, across the Navajo reservation. We stopped at the historic Cameron Trading Post, for a rest, a bite to eat and a look through the Gallery which is now housed in the former Cameron Hotel. A more modern motel, gas station and a post office is also on the property. The Gallery contains some of the finest Native American weavings, pottery, baskets and jewelry to be found. Many are very old. The main trading post offers many authentic items as well as a variety of souvenirs and snacks. The restaurant offers a wide selection.

We pass, Lee's Ferry, the Marble Canyon Lodge and the Vermilion Cliffs which are all worthy of a stop on the return trip. At last we reach historic Jacob Lake Inn (which doesn't have a lake), but is worthy of another stop. Once we turn onto Hwy 67 from Hwy 89, we travel into an area ravaged by the 2006 Kaibab Forest Fire. After a few miles of a sad landscape, we pass several meadows, view several deer grazing and begin to see many stands of tall pines and aspen trees whose leaves are beginning to show the fall colors of gold and orange. At last we enter Grand Canyon Park and it's just a few miles to Grand Canyon Lodge where we can check into our cabins.

Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim was originally built in 1927-28 by the Union Pacific Railroad. The architect was Gilbert Stanley Underwood, who positioned the Lodge to take advantage of spectacular views of the Canyon. The materials used were local Kaibab limestone (red and white rocks) and local timbers. Then in 1932, the main lodge and two of the deluxe cabins burned. Reconstructing the Grand Canyon Lodge and adding new cabins began in 1936 and 1937 when the worst of the Great Depression years were past. Since the rock structures had not burned, the original walls could be used. Today the Lodge has tried to retain the flavor of the 1930s. The giant glass windows allow wonderful views of the Canyon from the dining room, lobby and east and west terraces. Giant Navajo rugs are hung on the walls, and the furniture is comfortable overstuffed leather. The best feature of the main Lodge is the giant wrought iron chandeliers with their Native American designs. Antique radios and other "bits" of antique furniture do retain the original 1930s flavor although the overall appearance is rustic stone and wood. I have to confess that I still like the El Tovar Hotel on the South Rim the best for it's superb attention to original historical details, but the Grand Canyon Lodge has a great casual appeal.

Our cabin is rustic log interior and exterior. With advance reservations, we have a rim view cabin and it's heavenly to be able to have coffee in bed while watching the sunrise spread over the Canyon. The daytime temps are warm and sunny with a light jacket needed in early morning and after nine in the evenings. The Lodge is now being managed by Forever Lodging and reservations for the Grand Canyon Lodge needs to be made well in advance. Dining room (which offers fine dining and cocktails) reservations also need to be made in advance. The dining room also will pack picnic lunches. Other dining choices are the Deli and the Saloon. There's a gift shop and visitor center by the Lodge entrance.

Activities include interpretive programs on the history, geology and wildlife in the Canyon. We attended the lecture on the reintroduction of the California Condor and the presentation was excellent. Mule rides down the Kaibab Trail are half day and full day. Cycling is popular, the campgrounds have excellent facilities and there is a junior ranger program for children. Of course hiking remains the most popular activity, along with hunting for perfect photo opportunities. Reading a book, playing cards or other games, watching the squirrels and chipmunks, or sitting or napping are perfect activities too.

The morning we depart, we drive the Cape Royal Point loop road and are delighted by the views of the Colorado River from Angel's Point. Alas, we depart the North Rim Park Enterance, and make promises to return some day. For those wanting more information on the Grand Canyon National Park and the lodging and activities, I suggest visiting the www.grandcanyonlodges.com website.